FAQs and how to choose

"Can I try it"?

Absolutely.  We have 30 day returns on all standard models and sizes.  No two horns, even the same model, are the same and there's no substitute for trying it out.

We encourage you to try out any given model in the default size before ordering a different one.  Our sizes have been picked carefully from field trials to give the best all-around playing experience and it's very helpful for us to know qualitatively how you want it to be different than the default.

"I'm a low / high player and your models names / types don't give me much guidance on which is best for me?"

We really spent a lot of the R&D time on making sure all the models work in all the ranges.  Every design needs to open up in the low register to let you develop a big, resonant sound.  And up top they need to give you a little bit of resistance and brighten up to keep everything efficient.  None of our models pass QA without these characteristics.

"Do I want a deep or shallow cup?"

If you want a bright, clear sound and narrower, more accurate slots you want one of the shallower cups (G, LA, and MD).  These are efficient and project very well.  This comes at the expense of some ability to bend and form the pitches - they're "slotty".  High horn players tend to prefer this tradeoff.

If you want a darker, rich sound you want a deeper cup (GS, C, M).  These come with better pitch bending for slurs & the most demanding intonation matching, but they're less "slotty" and don't project as intensely. These are great for chamber music,  orchestral 2nd horn players will find this useful, and anyone craving velvety slurs and smooth sound.

"My horn isn't either a Geyer or a Kruspe, what do I need?"

The whole "geyer/kruspe" think is a bit over indexed at the best of times; does a large belled Geyer/Knopf really play differently than a small bell Kruspe?  No not really - it's a continuum and the leadpipe + bell combo is much more impactful than the shape of the tubes.  I use this as a shorthand for "large belled" and "small belled" horns - most of the time to balance them a large belled horn is accompanied by a more restrictive leadpipe (think a Conn 8D) which we're calling a "Kruspe" horn.  "Geyers" have narrower bells and more open "free blowing" pipes.  If your maker has supplied you a large bell horn with a restrictive leadpipe - regardless of the shape - we'd steer you towards the models LA or C.

"Ok but that wasn't actually that helpful, give me the guide"

Ok first you're going to figure out what shank you have.  If it's American you want to choose from the American shank family (G, LA, GS, C or in rare circumstances the H American).  If you have an Alex or other "European" shank horn you want the M series (M, MD).

Let's break down the American shank options first; and it's going to start with what feel you want.

If you feel your horn pushes back to you and won't let you play with as big or open an air stream as you want, you want to shop the "kruspe" line - the LA and C.

If you feel the opposite - that your horn just takes too much air and doesn't provide you the power or efficiency you need, you want the "geyer" line - the G and GS.

Now you need to decide deep or shallow (see above) with the GS & C representing "deep" and the G & LA representing "shallow(er)".

On the Mainz shank we offer the deeper M and shallower MD.  The larger, open receivers on these horns require a small throat and a semi-narrow backbore so the only real choice is on the depth.  If for some reason your European shank horn is playing really tight and bright on the M with it's standard 18 bore we can open it up to a 16, 14 or even 12 as a special order.